There are many unsustainable fabrics that collectively wreak havoc: polluting land and water with chemicals, toxins, and microplastics, emitting significant greenhouse gasses, consuming vast amounts of water near production facilities, and perpetuating unsafe, unethical working conditions. And if that weren't alarming enough, these bargain fabrics often harbor toxic chemicals linked to harmful health effects, to learn more check out our article on clothing and its environmental impact.
By consciously avoiding these main ingredients in fabric choices, you're not just safeguarding yourself, but also supporting fair labor practices and environmental conservation efforts. It may seem like a small act, but collective action holds immense power to drive change—something urgently needed in our current context.
Let's begin by illuminating the most unsustainable materials that dominate mass production, before delving into the realm of more sustainable options. By understanding the environmental impacts of various textiles, we can make clothing decisions with greater ease and mindfulness.
Spandex, or elastane in Europe, stands as one of the most prevalent fabrics globally, particularly favored in athletic wear, leggings, and swimsuits. However, its derivation from non-renewable fossil fuels renders it an unsustainable choice.
The manufacturing process of spandex is alarmingly pollutive and energy-intensive, involving the utilization of numerous toxic chemicals. These chemicals pose potential risks not only to workers but also to wearers due to residual traces. Moreover, spandex significantly contributes to microplastic pollution every time it undergoes washing. Unfortunately, its complex composition complicates recycling efforts, relegating it to landfills where it persists indefinitely without biodegradation.
Acrylic often serves as a wool substitute in sweatshirts and rugs. Derived from fossil fuels, this product already slips into the unsustainable category. its production involves the use of hazardous chemicals like acrylonitrile. Despite attempts to cleanse fabrics during various stages, complete elimination of these toxins proves unfeasible. While wearing acrylic poses minimal risk to consumers, its production poses significant hazards to workers. Moreover, acrylic's non-biodegradable nature ensures it languishes in landfills for centuries, compounding environmental concerns.
Nylon emerges as one of the predominant synthetic fabrics, frequently found in sportswear, leggings, and tights. Much like polyester, it originates from crude oil, rendering it non-biodegradable. Regrettably, nylon degrades into microfibers with each wash cycle, posing a significant environmental concern. While reducing laundry frequency and employing microfiber filters offer partial solutions, complete prevention remains elusive.
Furthermore, nylon's production heavily relies on non-renewable fossil fuels, exacerbating its environmental footprint. Its manufacturing process entails substantial water consumption, contributing to its reputation as a water-intensive material. Additionally, nylon emits Nitrous oxide, a greenhouse gas 265 times more potent than carbon dioxide, which persists in the atmosphere for an average of 121 years. These factors collectively render nylon an unsustainable choice.
Viscose, perhaps more than any other fabric, falls victim to greenwashing (falsely advertising eco friendliness). It belongs to the rayon family, a category encompassing semi-synthetic fabrics derived from plant sources. While "viscose" and "rayon" are often used interchangeably, viscose just happens to be the predominating version of rayon. Yet, within the realm of rayon, other variants like modal and lyocell emerge, with lyocell is observed to be a more sustainable option.
Typically sourced from fast-growing trees such as beech or eucalyptus, viscose production has also expanded to encompass plants like bamboo or soy, which is why at a first glance it seems evo friendly. However, despite its botanical origins, the manufacturing process is chemically intensive, involving the isolation of cellulose from pulp followed by chemical regeneration and spinning into fiber. However, this overview merely scratches the surface; a deeper dive into the viscose process can offer greater insights.
Although marketed as eco-friendlier alternatives to polyester or cotton, viscose and other rayon fabrics often fall short of sustainability claims. Conventional viscose production contributes to deforestation, excessive water consumption, and hazardous labor conditions. For instance, the chemicals utilized in viscose processing are typically highly toxic, posing risks not only to workers but also to nearby communities, ecosystems, and wildlife when pollutants inevitably seep into water sources.
Navigating cotton in sustainable fashion can be perplexing. While natural fibers are often hailed as eco-friendly alternatives to synthetics, conventional cotton diverges from this narrative. However, organic and recycled cotton offer reassuringly sustainable alternatives.
Conventional cotton's sustainability shortcomings stem from its widespread cultivation and voracious water appetite. Producing a single pound of cotton fiber demands a staggering 1,320 gallons of water, not to mention the water consumed in garment production. In stark contrast, responsibly cultivated flax, the source of linen, can thrive without irrigation.
Moreover, conventional cotton relies heavily on synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides. While these chemicals boost yields, they deplete soil fertility post-harvest. Worse still, synthetic pesticides have been associated with heightened cancer risks among workers and their families. These pollutants persist, leaching into soil and water systems through rainfall and irrigation, posing threats to humans, wildlife, and ecosystems alike.
Polyester stands out unequivocally as the least sustainable fabric today. Its annual production hits a staggering 61 million tons, claiming a mammoth 54% market share, surpassing all other fibers combined.
The environmental toll of polyester extends far beyond its sheer volume. Derived from non-renewable fossil fuels, polyester is essentially a form of plastic akin to what's used in crafting bottles and containers.
Despite its practical benefits like stretchiness and resilience, polyester poses a grave threat through the release of microfibers—microplastics—during washing. These insidious particles infiltrate water bodies, eluding filtration, and eventually permeate rivers, streams, and oceans, entering the food chain and wreaking havoc on wildlife. What's worse, these microfibers persist indefinitely, unable to degrade in the environment.
Moreover, polyester's production demands a staggering 71,000 cubic meters per ton of fiber, surpassing even the water-thirsty conventional cotton. While some wastewater can theoretically be recycled, most polyester manufacturing facilities lack the infrastructure for such practices. Consequently, laden with toxic compounds, wastewater is recklessly discharged, posing grave risks to ecosystems and human health alike. As for the icing on the cake, more studies have been coming out indicating that sweating in polyester clothing has a high risk of dermal absorption given that it is treated with so many chemicals. Aside from the flame retardants and water resistant toppings added, polyester is usually died with "disperse dyes" which is a family of chemical colorants used specifically for plastics that are now well known skin irritants particularly for people with skin conditions such as eczema and children.
Bamboo is increasingly lauded as a highly sustainable resource, and rightfully so in some respects. It holds the distinction of being one of the fastest-growing plants on Earth, with the remarkable ability to regenerate from its roots without requiring replanting. Moreover, bamboo thrives without the need for synthetic fertilizers, herbicides, or pesticides, offering a natural and eco-friendly alternative.
However, its sustainable reputation is not always upheld in practice. The surging demand for bamboo products has spurred the establishment of vast monoculture bamboo farms in China, often at the expense of forested lands. Additionally, some growers prioritize maximizing profits by resorting to excessive chemical fertilizers and pesticides, despite the inherent resilience of bamboo, thereby jeopardizing soil and water health in surrounding areas.
Compounding the issue, many fabrics labeled as "bamboo" are actually derived from viscose, an unsustainable fabric product. Yet, amidst this misinformation, there's a glimmer of hope in “bamboo linen”—a type of bamboo fabric processed mechanically rather than chemically. However, its scarcity is attributed to the labor-intensive and costly manufacturing process.
To address the confusion surrounding bamboo products, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) has instituted regulations for businesses selling bamboo textiles. Look out for the term "derived from bamboo," indicating a likely blend with viscose. Thanks to FTC guidelines, companies are prohibited from using the term "bamboo" unless the fabric is directly made from bamboo fiber, offering consumers clearer information and choices.
Which fabrics qualify as sustainable choices? Typically, natural fibers like hemp, linen, and cotton boast a lower environmental impact compared to synthetic counterparts sourced from fossil fuels. However, conventional farming methods employed in their cultivation often degrade soil quality and necessitate heavy pesticide use. Therefore, opting for organic fibers whenever feasible is advisable for minimizing environmental harm.
Let’s first talk about recycled polyester
In the realm of fashion, the concept of the circular economy holds significant importance—it entails the ability to recycle materials or products, enabling their continual reuse. Recycled polyester emerges as one of the lower-impact fabrics available, offering a promising avenue for addressing the burgeoning waste crisis. Opting for recycled items not only promotes sustainable waste management but also mitigates the creation of new environmental challenges.
Contrary to its name, recycled polyester IS NOT sourced from polyester itself; rather, it comprises recycled plastics derived from water bottles and jugs (PET), a commendable initiative. However, its sustainability is somewhat limited, as it can only undergo recycling once before necessitating downcycling into lower-quality products like insulation or rags, thus extending its lifecycle within the economy.
Moreover, being derived from plastics, recycled polyester still presents some challenges, particularly regarding microplastic pollution through repeated washing. Implementing sustainable laundry practices—such as washing garments less frequently, air-drying clothes, and utilizing microplastic filters—can help alleviate this issue.
Despite its imperfections, recycled polyester proves significantly more sustainable, especially when compared to virgin polyester. Therefore, when faced with a choice between spandex, polyester, or other alternatives versus recycled polyester, opting for the latter is undoubtedly the more environmentally wise choice.
Lyocell, often recognized under the branded name TENCEL™ Lyocell, is a product of Lenzing AG, an Austrian company renowned for its sustainable textile innovations.
This semi-synthetic fabric derives from plants but undergoes a chemically intensive process. In essence, cellulose, typically sourced from wood pulp, undergoes chemical dissolution, regeneration into fiber, and subsequent spinning into usable yarn.
While classified as a type of rayon fabric, lyocell distinguishes itself by its significantly lower environmental and health impacts compared to viscose, the more prevalent form of rayon. This stems from the use of non-toxic chemicals in the lyocell process, managed within a closed-loop system. Additionally, the lyocell manufacturing process consumes less energy and water than both conventional cotton and generic viscose, positioning it as a more sustainable alternative to either.
Wool enjoys widespread popularity, particularly as a go-to option for winter apparel. However, the production of conventional wool can pose significant resource challenges, originating from sheep farming practices. Assessing the sustainability of animal-derived materials can be complex, as practices vary widely within the industry.
Mass consumption of wool often raises concerns, as sheep shearers are typically compensated based on volume rather than hourly rates. This incentivizes efficiency over animal welfare, potentially compromising ethical standards. This is why it’s important to know the sourcing when shopping for animal products.
Opting for materials already in circulation offers a more sustainable alternative, inherently minimizing environmental impact compared to constant reliance on new raw materials. Wool stands out for its recyclability and longevity, with some European companies boasting decades, some even up to over a century, of experience in wool recycling. Unlike cotton, wool retains much of its strength and durability through multiple recycling cycles, without shedding microplastics—an added environmental benefit.
The utilization of hemp material has a rich history and continues to gain popularity, stemming from the versatile hemp plant. Known for its ease of cultivation and minimal water requirements, hemp boasts a commendably low environmental footprint, standing out as an eco-friendly choice.
However, despite its inherent resilience, some growers resort to pesticides in a bid to enhance yields. Therefore, it's crucial for consumers to scrutinize labels and prioritize products labeled as "Organic Hemp" to ensure sustainability and minimize environmental impact.
Linen, crafted from the durable flax plant, stands out for its eco-friendly attributes. Flax, renowned for its resilience to drought and minimal environmental footprint, consumes significantly less water compared to cotton while yielding impressive harvests. Moreover, flax cultivation typically avoids the use of pesticides or herbicides, though exceptions exist among growers.
Consumers seeking sustainable linen options should prioritize products labeled as certified organic or possessing GOTS certification, ensuring adherence to stringent environmental and ethical standards.
Despite its eco-friendly credentials, linen represents a mere fraction of the textile industry, accounting for less than 1% of production. This is attributed to its labor-intensive and costly manufacturing process, resulting in higher price points. While its coarser texture may not appeal to those seeking garments snug against the skin, linen finds favor in applications such as curtains and sheets. Renowned for its breathability, linen excels in tropical climates, making it an ideal choice for warm-weather apparel and home textiles.
The debate surrounding cotton often revolves around the various types available: recycled, organic, regenerative organic, or conventional. Recycled cotton, while presenting its own set of challenges, proves to be a lower environmental impact as it doesn't necessitate additional land and consumes fewer resources compared to virgin cotton, whether organic or conventional.
However, amidst the discourse, confusion persists regarding the superiority of organic over conventional cotton. Let's clarify: organic cotton indeed holds an edge over its conventional counterpart. Yet, the rationale behind this assertion is nuanced.
Organic cotton serves as a lower-impact alternative primarily because it eschews synthetic herbicides and pesticides, substances detrimental to soil health, wildlife, and human well-being. However, claims suggesting that organic cotton farming requires less water than conventional methods may not be exactly true. While organic farming techniques foster soil with enhanced water retention capabilities, thereby reducing water usage per acre, they often yield lower crop yields. Consequently, more land is required to produce equivalent quantities of cotton, offsetting many of the water-saving benefits.
Nonetheless, organic cotton remains a more sustainable choice than conventional cotton. The absence of herbicides and pesticides not only benefits workers, wildlife, and ecosystems but also extends the productive lifespan of the land used for cultivation. Furthermore, garments crafted from organic cotton offer safer wearing experiences, as they contain fewer chemical residues than their conventional counterparts.
Recycled cotton, although not a novel concept, is experiencing a surge in popularity within the fashion industry as both consumers and brands pivot towards more sustainable fabric choices. This recycled variant predominantly originates from two key sources: pre-consumer waste, encompassing cotton scraps generated during cutting processes, and post-consumer waste, such as discarded cotton T-shirts that undergo recycling.
Presently, a significant portion of the industry's recycled cotton finds application in producing lower-grade materials like mops, carpets, and insulation. This is attributed to the fact that recycled cotton fibers typically exhibit reduced durability compared to the original raw material being first produced. However, leading brands like Patagonia are starting to incorporate recycled cotton into their clothing lines by mixing it with robust fibers like virgin organic cotton or recycled polyester.
While recycled cotton fibers may undergo degradation in strength and durability during the recycling process, there remain compelling reasons to incorporate recycled cotton into new textiles and garments. Notably, recycled cotton consumption translates to reduced water usage, diminished CO2 emissions, and the elimination of additional pesticide and herbicide applications. Furthermore, recycled cotton scraps are often sorted by color, obviating the need for dyeing processes that consume copious amounts of water and pose toxicity risks to both workers and the environment.
We truly live in an abundant world that provides everything we need, the more we lean in and support sustainable practices and direct our money into environmental positive practices, the more available these sustainable products will be to us at every corner. Here at Synergistic Wellness we try to make this process as easy as possible, that’s why we have compiled a variety of different clothing companies for you to enjoy and make shopping more effortless!
In our exploration of unsustainable fabric textiles alongside environmentally friendly alternatives underscores the critical importance of conscious consumer choices in shaping the future of fashion. From the detrimental environmental impacts of synthetic fabrics like polyester and nylon to the ethical concerns surrounding conventional cotton and viscose, the textile industry faces profound sustainability challenges.
However, amidst these challenges, there exists a burgeoning array of eco-conscious textile solutions. From organic cotton and linen to innovative recycled options like TENCEL™ Lyocell and recycled polyester, these sustainable fabrics offer viable pathways towards a more environmentally responsible fashion landscape.
As consumers, we wield immense power to drive positive change through our purchasing decisions. By prioritizing fabrics with lower environmental footprints and supporting brands committed to sustainability, we can collectively propel the fashion industry towards greater social and environmental stewardship.
In embracing sustainable textiles, we not only reduce our ecological footprint but also champion a more equitable and regenerative future for fashion—one where style and sustainability seamlessly intertwine to create a wardrobe that reflects our values and commitment to a thriving planet.
https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2023/jul/02/fashion-chemicals-pfas-bpa-toxic
https://textileexchange.org/app/uploads/2022/10/Textile-Exchange_PFMR_2022.pdf
https://waterfootprint.org/resources/WFA_Polyester_and__Viscose_2017.pdf
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8525621/
https://pulitzercenter.org/stories/chinas-appetite-bamboo-damaging-forests
https://www.mdpi.com/2071-1050/15/9/7670
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